Camping Trip To Kipahulu
November 11-12, 2005

Last weekend we loaded the Tracker with a cooler full of food, our camping gear and headed down the Hana Highway to the Kipahulu Camping area at the Haleakala National Park on East Maui.

Along the way, we stopped at the Village of Keanae (Photo above) for a quick snack by the ocean. We noticed that the baseball field in Keanae has well maintained restrooms, which is always good information to have on the road to Hana.

The Coastline in Keanae

We tried to go to the Kahanu Garden on Ulaino Road (near the "Blue Pool"), but so it happens, it was closed for Veterans Day. Nonetheless, we picked up some breadfruit that had been left on top of the rock wall by the entrance and headed to Waianapanapa State Park (Black Sand Beach), where we cooked the breadfruit on our portable gas grill and had it for lunch.

We continued on to Hana, where we stopped to do a short hike up to FAGAN'S CROSS, which overlooks the town of Hana and Hana Bay. The hike is about 1.5 miles roundtrip with a 500 feet elevation gain. It is paved all the way and cuts trough a grazing field which at the time was occupied by what seemed to be hundreds of cows.

Fagan's Cross as seen from the trail.

Gwen at Fagan's Cross.

Town of Hana & Hana Bay from Fagan's Cross.

Juan at Fagan's Cross. Alau Island is seen in the Background.

Found some fresh Guava at Fagan's Cross

After leaving Hana, we headed to Haleakala National Park on East Maui. The Kipahulu camping ground is right next to the Pools of Oheo, also known as the "Seven Sacred Pools" (Note: There are more than seven and they were never sacred). The campsites are available for free and without reservation on a first-come, first-served basis. You can drive your car right up to the campsite and there are picnic tables and charcoal-fired grills.

Arriving at Kipahulu Campsite.

If you use the park grills, you must bring your own charcoal and I recommend bringing your own cooking surface for the park grills are old and rusty. There is no running water, no shower facilities there is only one outhouse. You must bring enough water for drinking, cooking and doing your dishes. You may also want to bring a camp shower or else you may have to drive about 20 minutes to Hamoa Beach or Hana Bay and use the public showers at the beach.

Rocky shore is dangerous and they mean it.

View of the Kipahulu Campground. Faint outline of the island of Hawaii is visible at the horizon.

Gwen makes herself at home in Kipahulu

Night time at Kipahulu is quite an experience. The campground is next to the rocky shore, so the sound of the waves crashing on the cliffs dominates the night. During the daytime the Big Island of Hawaii is visible in the distance and at night, it was dark enough and clear enough that we were able to see the faint lights along the coast of the Big Island, some 60 miles away! We used our portable gas grill to cook chicken and sweet potatoes. Insects are a constant nuisance, so repellent is a must. Once the moon went down over the horizon, it got impossibly dark. Cloud cover impeded us from seeing the stars, though.

Having Breakfast under the rain.

Being the east side of the island, it rained in the morning. Even then, we managed to use our grill to cook a hot breakfast and brew some coffee. Unfortunately, due to high water, we could not swim on the Pools of Oheo.

The Pools of Oheo (Seven Sacred Pools)

We packed our camping gear and headed back to Hana, where we spent a couple of hours at Hamoa Beach, enjoying the boggie-surfing. Then, after stopping for shave ice at "Halfway to Hana" and at Nahiku Road for coffee, we headed back home. Aloha!

October 30, 2005
Po'olenalena Beach, South Maui.

Today, we decided to visit this beach, which we had not had the chance to explore yet. Po'olenalena Beach is in Wailea with beach access just south of the intersection of Makena Alanui and Old Makena Road.

This beach runs north-south and is about half a mile long. It is bracketed by lava points at each end. The beach is also divided into north and south sections by a smaller lava point near the center (See photo). The north end is smaller and more secluded because public parking is by the south section and access to the north section requires walking down a short, narrow trail and climbing over the rocks on the center lava point.

We decided to go to this north section because according to our guide, the lava point at the north end (a.k.a. "White Rock") offered great snorkeling. But what our guide book did not say was that due to the secluded nature of this beach, it is also a popular destination for those who like sun-bathe and swim in the nude! Oh, well!

Anyway, imagine our surprise when we got there! Yes, it was difficult not to look, but then again, after a few minutes we felt it was no big deal. Although the water was crystal clear, the sea was somewhat choppy, and the swim to white rock looked a little long. In the end we did not go any snorkeling because of the high surf near the rocks. We did take advantage of the waves by the sandy shore and spent about an hour surfing on our boogie boards. It was a great time.

This beach is very good. The views are great. No, I don't mean the naked people! (Not necessarily, at least!) I mean the views of Molokini, Kaho'olawe and Pu'u Ola'i (See photo). Though we did not stay that late, this west-facing beach should be a great place to watch the sunset.

Those who are willing to put up with naked people walking around, should check the north section of the beach. (We hope to go back there someday to actually do some snorkeling.) For those who want a normal, nudity-free beach experience, the south side of Po'olenalena beach will be just fine.

Aloha.